TRAVEL

PHILIPPINES' "PERFECT CONE"

Mayon volcano, in SE Luzon, is the most active volcano in the Philippines. Its classic, symmetrical profile, which rises above the Albay Gulf to a height of 2462 m, is the result of a structurally simple volcano where eruptions have occurred from a single central conduit. Mayon's frequent historical eruptions, recorded since 1616, have typically included powerful explosive activity accompanied by pyroclastic flows, mudflows, and lava flows that descended to the lower flanks of the volcano.

The view before us amply supports his statement – Mount Mayon is the Philippines' biggest volcano at 2642m (8667ft) and often described as the world's most perfect volcano due to its conical shape. Set against bright blue sky with a halo of white cloud around the crater summit and vivid green farmland surrounding the slopes, it's an image postcards were made for.

Mayon is also the country's most active volcano. A black lava trail from 2009 has scarred its east face. Not far from where we're sitting are the Cagsawa ruins. Only a bell tower remains of the church where 1200 sheltered in the hope of receiving God's protection in the volcano's most lethal recorded eruption in 1814. God didn't oblige, and the total death toll from that eruption is believed to be more than 2200.

We park our bikes and climb up a trail of huge black lava rocks. Far beneath our feet, Thomas tells me, are the bodies of people buried alive in 2006, when 1266 people are said to have died after a typhoon caused a mudslide of volcanic ash and boulders. Several climbers have also been killed by avalanches as they scaled the peak. It's reassuring to have speedy quads just in case a quick getaway is needed.

Mt Mayon's a fitting image for the Philippines, a country that combines paradisical natural beauty with a certain volatility. The 7107 islands have a tumultuous history, from colonisation by the Spanish and Americans to Japan's heavy bombing of the islands during the Second World War. Despite being home to some of the world's friendliest people, much of the country's recent violence is self-inflicted – the south island of Mindanao is pretty much a no-go zone for tourists due to conflict between religious and political groups. Nor did corruption end with the clearing out of Imelda Marcos's shoe cupboards – taxi drivers here will tell you the Philippines is one of the most corrupt country in Asia.

Legend attempts to unravel the mystery of the origin of this magnificent chunk of earth. It seems that there once lived a very beautiful native princess who had an uncle named Magayon. He was so possessive of his niece that no man dared to challenge his wrath by courting the favors of the young maiden. One day, however, a brave and virile warrior was so smitten by the princess that he threw all cares to the wind, clambered up through the window of the royal chamber and enticed the girl to elope with him. With Magayon at their heels, the couple prayed to the gods for assistance. Suddenly from out of nowhere, a landslide buried the raging uncle alive. Local folks now claim that it is Magayon's anger bursting forth in the form of eruptions.